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Some 12 km from Chania and perched atop a thyme-covered hillside overlooking
the islands of Souda Bay the small village of Megala Horafia with a population
circa 300, still boasts a church or two, plus a local kafenion, three tavernas
and a thriving economy based on sheep and honey! The panoramic views of the distant
mountains are quite remarkable, especially during April and May when the highest
peaks are still dusted by snow. Nearby, is the ancient site of Aptera with its
old Turkish Castle and even older Roman Cisterns still in amazingly good repair.
3 km away is the tiny hamlet of Kalami with a choice of 2 tavernas and a quiet
sandy beach, whilst a further 5 minute drive will bring you to the bustling seaside
town of Kalives, with its numerous shops, tavernas and local banks. For somewhere
different and quintessentially Cretan, take an afternoon’s drive up into
the mountains to the tiny village of Samonas and visit Yiannis’ simple
cafenion. Yianni, in his seventies, is always dressed traditionally and sports
a splendid drooping moustache and wonderful warm smile. His sister keeps the
key to the remarkably beautiful Byzantine church of Agios Nikolaos, which is
a kilometre or so beyond the village. If you ask her nicely and drive her there
she will open it for you, but please don’t leave it too late in the afternoon,
as she has to milk her sheep! If you wish, and by way of recompense, buy a jar
of Yiannis’ locally produced honey and drink a glass of fiery raki with
him, his smile’s worth the pain!
Accommodation Guestbook
Megala Horafia
Wow!, what a laid back place. Never unwound so quickly! The view over Souda Bay is magnificent, the pool is perfect, this apartment was ideal, with the kitchen providing everything we needed.
Good access to local facilities,shops & tavernas with Hania (wonderful) only 20 minutes in the car, and the rest of the central and western end of Crete easily accessible.
The Freelance Rep was very friendly and knowlegeable.
We are looking forward to our next visit.
JAMIE & SHONAGH AVIS, Sep 2004
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